Things just seem to be getting easier and more convenient in Suzhou as time goes by (excluding any transactions at the post office, of course). The taxi drivers don’t take so many left turns as they used to, the shopkeepers mark their prices more often, bars still have cold beer all winter long – things are generally shinier, cleaner and more efficient. You might say that the cost of all of this rapid change is the loss of culture and tradition and an all-around faster pace of life. Still, there is one part of Suzhou that modernization hasn’t gotten the better of, but it’s hard to spot.
If you’re looking for a change, head to Pingjiang Walking Street; it runs north from Ganjiang road just south of Lindun road. Sabai Sabai, along with all of the surrounding buildings, is painted white with fabulous wooden frames and red lanterns hanging outside. A canal flows down the middle, barges bobbing away, and the pace of life is just slow here. Charming, ain’t it?
The inside of Sabai Sabai is as traditional as the outside, with the exception of really nice hookahs and comfortable furniture that is definitely not as old as the rest of building. You can take a seat at one of the couches or sprawl across the floor on cushions and pillows while you sip coffee or beer and smoke some nice blended tobaccos. Be warned, this isn’t your grandma’s bong; don’t try to fill up your lungs till you start coughing. You should take your time and enjoy this in the same way that you would a cigar. The desserts are also not to be missed. There’s tiramisu, cheesecake as well as the standard teahouse fare. All in all, this place has more charm than any coffee shop in town while managing to be classy, humble and inviting all at the same time.